What Is Your Garage Door Doing?
Pick the one that sounds like your door. Each guide gives you the likely causes, what’s safe to check yourself, and when to stop and call.
Garage door won't close all the way?
Most garage doors that refuse to close are being stopped by something the opener can see or feel: a blocked or misaligned photo-eye, or resistance it reads as an obstruction.
Garage door reverses when closing?
A door that reverses while closing is obeying a safety response: the opener sensed an obstruction, real or false.
Garage door stuck open?
Treat a door stuck open as unsupported until proven otherwise: do not press the button repeatedly, and do not pull the manual release — a failed spring or cable may be the only thing holding it up.
Garage door making loud noise?
Where and when the noise happens narrows it fast: squealing or grinding along the travel points to rollers, hinges, or dry bearings, while one loud bang from above the door is the classic sign a spring may have let go.
Garage door won't open with remote?
When remotes stop working but the wall button still moves the door, the search narrows to the remote side: battery, pairing, the wall console's lock feature, or receiver range.
Garage door cable came off?
If a lift cable is loose, off the drum, frayed, or broken, stop operating the door and keep clear.
Garage door won't open at all?
First separate power from mechanics: if the opener's light and wall console are dead, start at the outlet and breaker.
Garage door is off track?
A door with rollers outside the track is holding itself up on whatever is left — do not run the opener, pull the release, or try to lift it.
Garage door motor runs but the door won't move?
A motor that runs while the door stays still points one of three ways: a trolley disengaged by the release cord, a worn drive component no longer carrying load, or a door problem the opener cannot overcome.
Garage door opens or closes by itself?
A door that moves on its own deserves a methodical check: a sticking wall button, a remote pressed in a pocket or car, a stray programmed code, wiring, or an operator-board fault can each do it.
Garage door is crooked or uneven?
A crooked door has lost even lift on one side — a slipped or broken cable is the first suspect — and it may be one movement away from jamming or coming off the track.
Garage door shakes or jerks when opening?
Shaking that repeats at the same spot in the door's travel points at the path — a bent track section, a failing roller, a dry hinge — while shaking through the whole travel leans toward balance or the operator.
Garage door only opens partway then stops?
Note where it stops: the same height every time suggests travel settings or something in the track at that point; random heights suggest force limits, binding, or a counterbalance losing its lift.
Garage door won't open in cold weather?
Cold stiffens lubricants, tightens metal clearances, and weakens backup batteries — but winter also exposes marginal springs and balance problems that summer masked.
Garage door sensor light is blinking?
A blinking photo-eye is talking in a model-specific code — the same pattern means different things across manufacturers.
Garage door opener is beeping or chirping?
Opener beeps are coded messages — battery-backup status, a pending-movement warning, or connectivity — and the code differs by manufacturer and model.
Garage door is hard to lift by hand?
An unusually heavy, unstable, or difficult-to-move door can indicate a counterbalance, cable, track, roller, section, or other mechanical problem.
Garage door panel is cracked or dented?
A single damaged section may be replaceable when the exact model, dimensions, profile, construction, finish, and compatible part remain available and the rest of the door is structurally suitable.
Garage door has a gap at the bottom when closed?
Read the gap's shape: even across the full width points to the bottom seal or the travel setting, while a wedge at one side points to the floor, the door's level, or one cable riding differently on its drum.
Garage door myQ won't connect to Wi-Fi?
Start with the two things that stop most myQ connections: Wi-Fi signal strength at the opener itself, and a router setting the device cannot use — many myQ products need the 2.
Garage door clicks but won't open?
A click with no movement is the opener trying and being refused: electrical trouble on one side — relay, capacitor, board — or a locked, bound, or counterbalance-failed door on the other.
Not seeing your symptom? Use our interactive diagnostic tool instead.
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